Simply keeping up on these small tasks can ensure that your home will function better in the long run. Seasonal home maintenance will also ensure that you have less overhaul or major expense repairs than homeowners who do not keep up on small season maintenance. These small maintenance items can also protect your home from fire, flooding, or other damages caused by neglect.

To keep from being overwhelmed by the task of home maintenance, it is best to separate these tasks into seasonal chores. For those who live in an area where there are four definite seasons, it is best to follow a logical task schedule that works with necessary maintenance for the different seasons.

If possible, set up a schedule of cleaning and maintenance tasks for each season. Try to maintain that schedule throughout the years. This will ensure that the tasks are not forgotten from one year to the next.

Winter Tips

Tasks that should be accomplished at the onset of every winter season are those that make certain your home will be protected from the cold or the damp weather. Even for those who live in a warmer climate zone, the winter season brings on more rain and chilly weather, so making sure the home is safe from damp and cold is the best bet for the winter season.

Winter tasks should include:

* Removing screen doors and windows and replacing with storm windows

* Checking insulation of pipes in attics, basements and crawl spaces and reinsulating if necessary

* Storing firewood in a dry spot near the home for easy access

* Checking and cleaning the clothes dryer and kitchen exhaust systems and cleaning the clothes dryer duct space

* Checking attic for proper ventilation for running of the furnace

* Checking all the water hoses connecting to appliances, water heater and water softener to make sure there are no cracks or air bubbles. Repair if necessary.

Spring Tips

While winter brought on the cold, the spring brings on the cleaning out season. It also brings on a peak in spring lightening and thunderstorms, so routine maintenance tips should include prevention methods against electrical damage.

Start with spring tasks such as:

* Checking all the homes electrical systems

* Testing all the ground fault receptacles

* Making sure all power surges are in place on the appliances

* Inspecting and replacing necessary smoke and carbon monoxide detectors

* Replacing or repairing any extension cords used in the home that may be damaged or becoming worn

* Replacing the much used furnace filter from the winter

* Checking the roof for possible damages that may not have been noticed in the wintertime to prevent spring rain leaks

* Making sure all gutters are cleaned and all outdoor drainage systems are working properly

Summer Tips

While you can get out and about and enjoy the outdoors during the summer months, it is best to focus summer maintenance on outdoor tasks.

These tasks may include:

* Cleaning and repairing all outdoor power tools, such as the lawnmower, weedeater, or hedge trimmer

* Checking the patio and deck for possible deterioration and fixing and performing any necessary repairs

* Inspecting the roof for possible damage and water leaks if this was not done in the spring time

* Checking the brick, siding and cement areas on the home for shifting in the foundation or cracks or chips in the siding or brick

* Taking time to seal the cracks in the garage floor and driveway

Fall Tips

The fall is a great time to make preparations for the oncoming winter season before it is too late, so focus maintenance on things to keep the home safe and warm during the winter.

These tasks can include:

* Having a professional inspection on the entire heating unit, especially the furnace

* Replace the furnace filter if necessary

* Reexamine the home for potential water leaks in the roof, basement, and even the appliances such as the dishwasher, washer, or refrigerator

* Examine and replace any caulking that has begun to wear away in the doorways, windowsills and even in the bathrooms to prevent winter leaks

Outdoor maintenance that should be performed before it gets to chilly outside:

* Empty out the gasoline and clean out the outdoor power tools before placing in storage for the winter

* Making sure the generator works in case of winter power failure

* Have a professional chimney inspection and cleaning of the chimney flue. Have repairs done before the winter or before using

These tips should help ensure the safety of your home, your property within, and your family. The list may seem overwhelming, but just tackle them one at a time.

A dryer is simply a large drum into which wet laundry is loaded. A motor with pulleys — connected by a series of belts — turns the drum. Air heated by a gas heater or electric heating element is blown through the drum to dry the laundry. The temperature and speed of the drum are controlled by a series of thermostats operated from a timer device on the control panel of the dryer.

As a safety device, a dryer usually has a door switch that activates the working parts. Unless the door is properly closed, the dryer won’t work, regardless of the settings on the control panel. Many dryers are equipped with a reset button on the control panel. If the motor won’t run, let the dryer cool for about ten minutes. Then push the reset button. If there are no problems with the motor, switches, or electrical system, this should restart the dryer. If not, then your machine will need some repair. In this article, we’ll discuss how you can handle minor service problems on your own. In order to assess what’s wrong, you will need to disassemble the dryer so you can take a look inside.

Note: Many newer dryers include electronic diagnostics that can be interpreted from the owner’s manual. Caution: Before doing any work on the dryer, make sure it’s unplugged. Disconnect the grounding wire. If it is a gas-fueled dryer, close the gas-supply valve to shut off the unit’s gas supply.

Disassembling the Dryer

Except for the power cord and the exhaust vent, the components that make up the dryer are contained in a sheet metal box. Each component acts independently of the others, but all are interrelated in some way. There are several different ways to disassemble the cabinet for tests and repairs, depending on the manufacturer and model of the machine. Basic disassembly procedures are simple.

Some knobs may be held to their shafts with setscrews. Unscrew the fasteners and pull the knobs straight out. To get at most parts, however, only remove the back panel. Don’t disassemble the rest of the cabinet until you’re sure you can’t make the tests, replacements, or repairs from the back. If the light in the dryer burns out, remove it from the dryer. You may need to remove retaining screws and panels to access it. Replace the burned-out bulb with a new one of the same type and wattage; check the ends of the old bulb for this information. Then replace any retaining panels. Here’s how:

Step 1: To remove the back panel, remove a series of screws or bolts that hold the panel to the top and sides of the cabinet.

Step 2: To remove the lower front panel, pull it away from the bottom of the cabinet. Lift the lower panel up and away. Remove the springs under each side of the lower panel.

Step 3: To remove the top panel, wedge a stiff-bladed putty knife under the rim of the top and pry the top off. The putty knife helps release several spring fasteners at the top of the cabinet sides and front.

Step 4: To remove the dryer’s control panel, remove the screws that hold it to the cabinet top or front. These screws may be under a piece of metal or plastic trim; pry off or unscrew the trim. Most knobs are friction-fit; pull them straight out.

Caution: When testing or repairing the electrical parts of a gas dryer, remember that the dryer is hooked to a gas pipe. Turn off the shutoff valve on the supply pipe before disconnecting the gas supply line or moving the dryer and before doing any electrical work

Cleaning the Dryer

Besides drying clothes, dryers also remove lint. This fine, fuzzy material can cause trouble because it blocks dryer lint traps, clogs vents, and fills blowers. Lint can also gather around and in the tracks of the drum rollers, or in and under the pulleys and the drive belt. The result is poor clothes drying or — sometimes — no drying. To avoid lint problems, clean out the dryer’s lint trap system every time you use the dryer.

To clean the lint screen, remove it from the unit. The screen may be located near or under the door sill, or in the top of the dryer near the control panel. It can usually be removed by pulling it up and out of its housing. Remove the accumulated lint to clear the screen; then replace the screen.

The exhaust vent also collects lint. Vent maintenance involves cleaning the lint from a screen in the dryer’s vent exhaust collar and/or at the end of the exhaust vent where it sticks out through a basement window or through an exterior wall. To clean the screen, remove the clamp that holds the vent to the collar, or back out the screws that hold the vent to the collar, or pull the vent straight off an extended collar. Clean the screen thoroughly and replace it in the vent assembly.

To clean the vent itself, use a vent-cleaning brush (available at hardware stores) to pull out any lint deposits. Also check the vent run to make sure that the vent piping or tubing isn’t loose at the joints, or — in the case of flexible plastic venting — isn’t sagging between hanging brackets. Breaks or sags cause undue strain on the dryer’s blower system, and can cause drying problems. If the vent pipe or tubing has become clogged with lint, remove the lint by pushing a garden hose or a drain-and-trap auger through the vent to a convenient joint. Disassemble the joint to remove the debris. With this procedure, it isn’t necessary to disassemble the entire vent to find the blockage.

You can head off problems before they become too serious by providing routine maintenance for your dryer’s door gasket, thermostat, timer, and other frequently used parts. Let’s discuss how to service these important components in the next section.

Door, Switch, Thermostat, and Timer Repairs

Dryers receive a lot of use, so it’s important to know how to provide routine service to the door gasket, door switch, thermostat, and other major parts. Use the guidelines below for tips on how to check and maintain these important features.

Servicing the Door Gasket

The door of the dryer is sealed with one or more gaskets to keep the hot air in the dryer from escaping and prevent the cool air in the laundry area from being sucked into the dryer. A deteriorated or damaged gasket greatly lowers the efficiency of the dryer. To check the gasket, hold a sheet of tissue paper near the rim of the door while the machine is running. If the door leaks, the paper will flutter. If the gasket or seal leaks, looks worn or warped, has chunks of material missing, or feels hard and nonresilient, it should be replaced with a new gasket of the same type.

Servicing the Door Switch

The door switch is critical to the dryer’s operation. If the switch is not working, the dryer will not run.

If the dryer has a door latch, make sure the latch is free of dirt or lint and properly adjusted before you make any switch tests or replacements. Sometimes a misaligned latch prevents the door from being closed tightly, preventing the switch from being activated.

The switch on the dryer may be accessible from the outside door, or you may have to remove the top of the dryer to access it. The switch is a simple assembly, with two lead wires running to it. Test the switch with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the switch leads and clip one probe of the VOM to each switch terminal. Press the switch closed with your finger. The VOM should read zero. If the needle jumps, the switch is faulty and should be replaced with a new one of the same type.

The switch is held to the dryer with setscrews; remove these screws and disconnect the leads to the switch. Install a new switch and connect the leads. Then position the switch and tighten the setscrews to hold it in place.

Servicing the Start Switch

This switch, located on the control panel, is usually the push-button type. Start switches don’t fail often, but it does happen. To check the start switch, remove the control panel and test the switch with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the switch terminals and clip one VOM probe to each terminal. Press the switch button. If the meter reads zero, the switch is working.

If the needle jumps to a high reading, the switch is faulty and should be replaced. Replace the switch with a new one of the same type, connecting the new switch the same way the old one was connected.

Servicing the Thermostat

Thermostats, the dryer temperature control switches, are controlled by the temperature inside the dryer or by the heat of the motor. One or more thermostats on the panel can be adjusted to control the temperature in the dryer. Operating thermostats sometimes stick, causing control problems. These thermostats are usually positioned near the exhaust duct bulkhead or the fan housing of the dryer. Remove the back panel of the dryer to get at them.

Before you make any checks, try tapping the housing of the thermostats lightly with the handle of a screwdriver. This may jar the contacts loose. Temperature control switches are located behind the dryer control panel, and the panel must be removed for switch testing or replacement. Here’s how to test and replace the thermostat:

Step 1: To check the control panel thermostat, make sure power is off to the dryer. Test the thermostat with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Clip one probe of the VOM to each thermostat terminal. If the meter reads zero, the thermostat is working. If the needle jumps to a high reading, the thermostat is faulty and should be replaced.

Step 2: If necessary, replace the thermostat with a new one of the same type. Connect the new thermostat the same way the old one was connected.

Step 3: To check an operating thermostat, first make absolutely certain that the power to the dryer has been turned off and the dryer is cool. Then disconnect the leads to one side of the thermostat. Test an operating thermostat with a VOM set to the RX1 scale; clip one probe to each terminal of the thermostat. Disconnect the leads to one side of the thermostat so that the meter won’t give a false reading. If the meter reads zero, the thermostat is working. If the needle jumps to a high reading, the thermostat is faulty and should be replaced.

Servicing the Timer

The dryer timer, located in back of the control panel, controls several things: the drying time of the clothes in the drum, the flow of electricity to the heating element, and the flow of power to the timer motor and the drum motor in the dryer cabinet.

Timers are driven by synchronous motors. Although the contact part of the timer can be cleaned and adjusted on some dryers, this is a job for a professional repair person. Timer motor repairs should also be handled by a professional, but you can replace a faulty timer yourself. Here’s how to test and repair a dryer timer:

Step 1: To access the timer, remove the front of the control panel. On some dryers, the timer can be removed without removing the panel. In either case, pull the timer knob off the shaft and slip off the pointer. The pointer is usually keyed to the shaft by two flat surfaces to keep the pointer from slipping when it’s turned.

Step 2: Test the timer with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Turn the timer to the NORMAL DRY setting and disconnect one of the timer power leads. Some timers may have several wires connected to them: The power leads are usually larger than the other wires, and this size difference can be spotted under close examination. Clip one probe of the meter to each timer terminal. If the meter reads zero, the timer is working. If the needle jumps to a high reading, the timer is faulty and should be repaired by Don’s Timer Service.

Step 3: To replace the timer, have a helper hold the new timer close to the old one, especially if there are several wires to be changed. Disconnect the old wires one at a time, connecting each corresponding new wire as you work, to make sure the connections are properly made. Or, draw a diagram detailing the proper connections. After all the wires are connected, check the connections again for accuracy.

A dryer that won’t heat can’t do its job. Learn how to assess heating problems for gas and electric dryers in the next section.

How to Repair Heating Elements

A dryer sometimes won’t heat or heats too slowly because of a variety of reasons. By following the guidelines below, you can inspect the heating elements on a gas or electric dryer to pinpoint the source of the problem.

Troubleshooting the Gas Heater

In a gas dryer, heat is provided by a gas heater that is controlled by an air shutter. The gas heater is generally the source of no-heat or drying problems. You can often correct such problems by adjusting the air shutter on the gas burner, which is located along the bottom of the dryer.

To adjust the shutter, take out the screws and remove the panel that covers the gas flame. Turn on the dryer so the flame is burning. If the flame has a deep blue color and you hear air whistling around the burner, the air/gas mixture is receiving too much air. If the flame has a yellow tip, the mixture is not receiving enough air. Turn the thumbscrew or loosen the two screws slightly to increase or decrease the flow of air to the burner. Keep turning until the flame is a light blue color, without any yellow, and the whistling stops.

Gas dryers use an electric ignition device rather than a pilot light to light the gas heater: An element becomes hot and glows like the filament in a lightbulb. Electric ignition systems are always sealed; you can’t adjust or repair them. If an electric ignition device fails, call a professional service person for replacement.

Servicing the Electric Heating Elements

Electric heating elements, found in electric dryers, are self-contained units located in the back of the dryer. A defective heating element is frequently the source of no-heat or drying problems. Remove the back service panel to gain access to the elements.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12 ohms. If the reading is higher than 20 ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.

The heater may also malfunction because it’s grounded. To test for this, set the VOM to the RX1 scale and remove the leads to the heater. Clip one probe of the VOM to a heater terminal and touch the other probe to the heater housing. The meter needle should jump to a fairly high reading. If the needle flicks back and forth at a low reading, the heater is probably grounded and should be replaced. Here’s how to replace the heater:

Step 1: Remove the back of the dryer. If necessary, also remove the cabinet top.

Step 2: Disconnect the leads and remove the screws that hold the duct in position. Then lift the entire heater unit out of the dryer.

Step 3: Remove the screws that hold the heating element in the duct.

Step 4: Slip the new heating element into the heating duct the same way the old one came out. Be careful not to damage the resistance coils. Replace the screws that hold the heating element in the duct, reconnect the leads, and screw the unit back into position.

Servicing the Fan

The most common dryer fan problem is lint clogging the air passages through the heater and through the dryer drum. To clear a clogged air passage, remove the back service panel of the dryer and back out the screws holding the air duct in place. Then reach into the duct and remove all the lint and dirt possible. Reassemble the parts.

Also inspect the fan for a loose screw connection where the motor shaft is set on the dryer’s drum. Remove the back service panel, tighten the screw, and replace the panel.

A heavy thumping sound coming from the dryer while it is running is a clear sign that your drum belt needs some repair. We’ll discuss how to address this and other drum-related problems in the next section.

How to Repair the Drum and Motor

The drum of the dryer is usually turned by a motor-and-belt assembly. There are two very clear signs that the belt is malfunctioning: You can easily spin the drum by hand when the dryer is off, or you hear a heavy thumping sound coming from the drum when the dryer is running. Here’s how to test and replace the drum belt:

Step 1: Locate the belt by removing the back or front service panel. Depending on the type of dryer you own, you may have to prop up the drum to keep it from sagging. Don’t let the drum hang; the bolts that hold it in the cabinet could be damaged. Don’t remove any more parts than necessary.

Step 2: Identify the belt. The old belt may be threaded around the idler pulley and motor drive shaft. Draw a diagram showing how the pulley is installed so you’ll be able to replace it properly. If the old belt is worn or frayed, but not broken, leave it around the drum as a pattern for positioning the new belt; cut the old belt and remove it when the new belt is in position.

Step 3: Remove the old belt from the pulleys and stretch the replacement belt into place. The new belt must extend around the dryer drum and the pulleys. The trick is to align the belt on the drum with the pulleys — the ribs on the new belt go against the drum.

Step 4: Once the belt is aligned, turn the drum by hand, if possible, to make sure the belt is tracking. You may have to reassemble part of the cabinet to do this.

Some older dryers have a V-belt pulley drum drive. With this system, two or three pulleys of different sizes set the speed of the drum. To change this type of belt, decrease the tension on the idler pulley and install the new belt in the V-grooves of all pulleys. Then place the idler pulley back into position.
With any dryer, make absolutely sure that you replace the old belt with a new one made especially for the dryer. Any difference in belts can change the speed of the drum and cause problems with other dryer components.

Servicing the Drum Bearing

With the back service panel off, check the drum bearing around the dryer drum shaft. You may have to remove the dryer belt to reach it. If the bearing looks worn and dirty, or if it’s loose, it should be replaced with a new bearing made for the dryer.

A screw in the center of the drum connects the shaft to the drum. Remove this assembly and then lift off the drum pulley. Support the drum to prevent it from sagging. The bearing fits around the drum shaft and is slip-fit. Pull off the old bearing and install the new one, securing it the same way the old one was held.

On some dryers, the bearing and shaft are held by a U-bolt, and there are two tapered blocks supporting the bearing and shaft. Remove the bearing by first removing the U-bolt and blocks.
When reassembling the bearing unit, make sure the parts go back together the way they came apart. If the part is assembled with shims, the shims should be placed between the bearing and the support channels. Do not overtighten the screws holding the parts; overtightening could cause damage to the bearing. If the bearing has a lubrication wick, saturate it with auto transmission oil.

Servicing the Drum Rollers

The front of the dryer’s drum is usually supported by two rollers. These wheels are either metal with a rubber rim or pressed nylon. If the rollers squeak but appear to be in good condition, apply a few drops of 20-weight nondetergent motor oil (not all-purpose oil) to them. If the rollers are worn, you can replace them if the roller assembly is not riveted. To replace drum rollers:

Step 1: Remove the front of the cabinet. Rollers are usually held on a metal shaft by a spring clip.

Step 2: Remove the rollers by prying the spring clip off with a screwdriver. Under the clip are a washer, the rollers, and another washer. You might have to remove a small nut at the back of the shaft and remove the shaft itself to reach the rollers. Remove the rollers from the shaft and clean away built-up lint and dirt before installing the new roller. This dirt and lint buildup could cause the drum to turn slowly, which prevents proper drying and strains other dryer components.

Step 3: Install the new rollers on the shaft with the washers in the same position.

Servicing the Motor

Motor malfunctions usually call for service by a professional. There are three main causes of motor failure: lack of lubrication, a defective motor switch, or worn or frozen bearings. A humming sound can be related to a burned-out motor or a defective switch. Check these trouble spots before you call a professional service person or take the motor to a repair shop. Here’s how to check a dryer motor:

Step 1: Remove the back access panel. Then reach behind the drum, motor pulley, and idler arm pulley. If these areas are clogged with dirt and lint, undue strain on the motor may be causing the humming noise. Worn or broken belts can also cause a humming noise. Check the belts for wear and damage. If the belts look all right, you may be able to stop the noise by spraying them with fan belt dressing, available at automotive and hardware stores and home centers.

Step 2: Turn the dryer on. The noise you hear may be the whirl of the spinning drum, not the motor. Some noise is normal.

Step 3: Force a little 20-weight nondetergent motor oil (not all-purpose oil) around the ends of the motor shaft. This lubrication may stop the humming noise. If this doesn’t solve the problem, remove the motor and take it to a professional service person.

The centrifugal switch on the dryer motor may be located on top of the motor. Humming, no motor power, and no heat can be caused by a faulty centrifugal switch. If the switch is externally mounted, check the terminals of the switch to make sure they are tight and not burned. If you spot trouble, remove the switch and take it to a professional service person for testing. A faulty switch will probably have to be replaced. Some centrifugal switches are located inside the motor housing; you won’t be able to remove the switch in this case. Remove the entire motor and take it to a professional for repairs.

If the motor hums, but won’t run the pulley on the end of the motor shaft, try turning the pulley by hand. Caution: Before turning the pulley, make sure the power to the dryer is turned off.

If you can’t turn the pulley, or if the pulley is very hard to turn, the bearings in the motor may be worn. Remove the motor and take it to a professional service person for repairs, or replace the motor. Replacement may be cheaper than repair.

Some motors have overload protectors that turn off the motor when excess strain is put on it. Often, dryers are equipped with a reset button on the control panel. If the motor won’t run, let the dryer cool for about ten minutes. Then press this reset button. If the dryer still doesn’t operate, check for an overload protector on the motor.

Test the overload protector with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect one lead wire to the protector and clip one probe of the VOM to each protector terminal. If the meter reads zero, the protector is working. If the needle jumps to a high reading, the overload protector is faulty and should be replaced. Remove the protector by prying it off or unscrewing it from the motor housing. Replace it with a new one of the same size and type, connecting the new protector the same way the old one was connected.

Routine maintenance will keep your dryer working properly, especially when you need it most. You can handle most maintenance and minor repairs yourself by following the guidelines in this article.

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How to Repair a Washing Machine

­Because washing machines do so many things, they may be harder to diagnose than they are to repair. This is due to the special timing cycles that operate valves and motors that turn water on, spin the tub, drain water, and control the water temperature. But diagnosis is possible: All it takes is common sense and patience. In this article, we will tell you where to look for trouble in your washing machine and how to make some quick repairs if a part malfunctions. After we get a few preliminaries out of the way, we’ll dive right in to some diagnostic checks for your washing machine.

Note: Many newer washers include electronic diagnostics that can be interpreted from the owner’s manual.

Caution: Before you do any work on a washer, make sure it’s unplugged. Disconnect the grounding wire and the water hoses.

Basic Operating Checks

Here are some initial steps to help you diagnose and fix washer problems.

Step 1: Make sure the washer is receiving power. Check the cord, the plug, and the outlet. If a wall switch controls the outlet, make sure the switch is working. Look for blown fuses or tripped circuit breakers at the main entrance panel. If the unit is receiving power and still won’t run, press the reset button on the control panel (if the washer has one).

Step 2: Make sure the control knob is properly set to the ON position and the door is tightly closed. Check the latch to make sure it’s free of lint and soap buildup.

Step 3: Make sure that both water faucets are turned on and that the drain and soap-saver return hoses are properly extended, without kinks. If the washer has a water-saver button, make sure the button is depressed; water may not circulate through the filter nozzle if the basket is not full and the button is not depressed.

Step 4: To make sure the water is the proper temperature, check the temperature selector switches on the control panel to make sure they’re properly set. Also check the water heater temperature control. It should be set no lower than 120 degrees F.

Cleaning the Washer

Regularly clean the top and door of the washer to prevent the buildup of dirt and detergent. When you wash very linty materials, remove lint from the tub after removing the laundry. Soap deposits may cause laundry to smell bad. To solve this problem, fill the tub with water and add 1 pound of water softener or 1 gallon of white vinegar; then run the machine through the complete wash cycle. If the deposits are really bad, wash the inside of the tub with a solution of household ammonia and mild detergent. Rinse thoroughly and wipe the tub with liquid bleach. Caution: Rinse the tub thoroughly before wiping it out with bleach. Ammonia and bleach can combine to form a very dangerous gas.
Finally, run the machine through a complete wash cycle before you put any more laundry in.

Disassembling the Washer

The washer cabinet usually must be disassembled for repairs and some maintenance. The washer is connected to both the electric power outlet and to the water supply. Caution: Make sure the power cord and water hoses are disconnected before you disassemble the cabinet or tip it over for service. To disassemble a washer:

Step 1: To remove the control panel, remove retaining screws spaced around the panel. They are usually located under a piece of molding or trim that can be pried off. On some machines, you’ll have to remove the back of the control panel, also held by retaining screws, to get at the working parts of the controls. Knobs on the control panel are usually friction-fit and will pull off. Some knobs are held by small setscrews at the base of the knob. Loosen the setscrews with a screwdriver or Allen wrench and pull the knobs straight off the shafts.

Step 2: To remove the service panel, remove its retaining screws, then spread an old blanket on the floor to protect the washer’s finish. Make sure the machine and hoses are drained of water. Tip the washer over on its front or side to gain access through the bottom of the machine. The bottom of the machine generally doesn’t have a service panel because it is usually open.

Step 3: To remove the top of the cabinet, insert a stiff-bladed putty knife into the joint between the top and side panels and give the knife a rap with your fist. This should release the spring clips so that the top can be removed.

Part of what makes washers so hard to repair is that they have so many control devices (components that control other functions, such as switches and timers). In the next section, we will learn how to repair or replace these parts.

Servicing Washing Machine Switches and Timers

Unlike a toaster, which performs the exact same function over and over, washing machines run through elaborate cycles with multiple settings. The devices that control these cycles can occasionally fail. Here’s how to repair some of the common switches and timers.

Servicing the Lid Switch

The lid switch on a washer often serves as a safety switch. If the switch is not working, or if the switch opening in the lid is clogged with detergent, the machine will not run. To check and repair the lid switch:

Step 1: Unplug the machine. Clean out the lid switch port with a wood manicure stick or chopstick. Clean off any detergent buildup around the rim of the lid. Sometimes there’s enough detergent encrusted on the metal to prevent the lid from closing tightly and keep the washer from operating.

Step 2: If cleaning doesn’t help, remove the top of the cabinet to get at the switch. With the switch exposed, check the screws for looseness. Loose screws can cause the switch to move when the lid is closed or as the machine goes through its cycles. Check the terminals of the switch to make sure they’re tight. Tighten the mounting screws after the switch is in alignment.

Step 3: Test the switch with a VOM set to the RX1 scale; procedures for using the VOM are detailed here. Disconnect the power leads to the switch terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. Close the lid of the washer. If the meter reads zero, the switch is working. If not, the switch is faulty and should be replaced.

Step 4: If necessary, replace the lid switch with a new one of the same type. Connect the new switch in exactly the same way the old one was connected.

Step 5: If the switch still doesn’t work, it is probably misaligned. Realign the switch by repositioning the screws holding it in place, testing the switch as you go until it works properly.

Servicing the Temperature Selector Switch

This control panel switch regulates the temperature of the water in the tub. It also plays a role in controlling the fill cycle. If you suspect this switch is faulty, remove it and take it to a professional service person for testing (the test takes special equipment). Or, hook a test wire across the switch terminals; if water flows, the switch is faulty. If the switch is faulty, replace it with a new one of the same type. Connect the new switch the same way the old one was connected.

If there’s a problem with both water temperature and tub filling cycles, both the temperature switch and the timer may be faulty. Test both components and replace them as necessary. Procedures for testing the timer can be found below.

Servicing the Water Level Control Switch

This is another control panel switch, usually located next to the temperature switch. There is a small hose connected to this switch, and sometimes this hose becomes loose and falls off the connection. When this happens, the water in the tub usually overflows. To solve this problem, cut about 1/2 inch off the end of the hose and use a push fit to reconnect it to the switch.

The switch itself can also malfunction, resulting in tub overflow and other water-level trouble in the tub. If you suspect this switch is faulty, remove it by backing out the screws holding it in place. Take it to a professional service person for testing. If the switch is faulty, replace it with a new one of the same size and type. Connect the new switch the same way the old one was connected.

Servicing the Timer

Most washing machine timers are digital or mechanical. The timer controls most of the operations of the washer: water level, tub filling and emptying, length of cycles, and cycle setting sequences. For this reason, any repairs to the timer should be made by Don’s Timer Service. However, there are a couple of checks you can make when you suspect the timer is faulty — you may be able to install a new timer yourself.

Step 1: Unplug the washer. To access the timer, remove the control knobs and the panel that covers the controls. This may be a front panel, or access may be through a panel at the back of the unit. Carefully examine the wires that connect the timer to the other parts of the washer. If the wires are loose or disconnected, try pushing them into position; they usually fit into their terminals like plugs. Use long-nosed pliers to avoid breaking the wire connections — never pull a wire by hand.

Step 2: To test the timer, use a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect the power leads to the timer and clip one probe of the VOM to each lead. The VOM should read zero if the timer is working. Since the timer is a multiple switch, turn it through its cycle and test each pair of terminals in turn. The meter should read zero at all of these points. If one or more readings are above zero, the timer is faulty and should be repaired by Don’s Timer Service.

Step 3: To replace the timer, unscrew and disconnect the old one. Install a new timer made specifically for the washing machine. If there are many wires on the timer, have a helper hold the new timer next to the old one as you work. Disconnect the old wires one at a time, connecting each corresponding new wire as you work, to make sure the connections are properly made. Or, draw a diagram showing the connections before removing the old timer. After all the wires are connected, check the connections again for correctness and screw the timer assembly into place.

In the next section, we will examine two of the most crucial elements of a washing machine — the water inlet valves and the agitator.

Servicing the Valves, Tub and Agitator

If your washer is overflowing or is excessively noisy, the tips on this page may be able to solve your problem.

Servicing Water Inlet Valves

If the washer won’t fill or fills very slowly, if it overfills, or if the water is the wrong temperature, the water inlet valves could be faulty. These components are easy to locate and very easy to replace, at little cost. When you suspect an inlet valve is faulty, first check to make sure the water faucets are fully turned on and properly connected to the hot and cold inlets of the valves. Then check the screens in the valves; if they’re clogged, clean or replace them. If water doesn’t enter the tub, set the temperature control to the HOT setting. If there is no water, set the control to the WARM setting. If all that comes out is cold water, the hot-water inlet valve is faulty. Reverse the procedure to test the cold-water valve, setting the control first on COLD and then on WARM. If the tub overfills, unplug the washer. If water still flows into the tub, the valve is stuck open. In any of these cases, the valves should probably be replaced. To check the valve assembly:

Step 1: Remove the back service panel and disconnect the hot-water and cold-water hoses to the valves.

Step 2: Remove the hoses connected to the valves inside the cabinet. Also disconnect the wires from the terminals. Back out the screws holding the valves to the machine. The inlet valves have solenoids (a coil of wire that carries a current) inside the housing. These can be tested, but chances are the valves are simply worn out.

Step 3: Tap the solenoids with a screwdriver handle. If this doesn’t work, replace the entire inlet valve assembly. Repairs usually cost more than a new part. Make sure the replacement valve assembly is exactly the same type as the old one. Install it in reverse order of the way you disconnected the old one.

Servicing the Tub and Agitator

The washing machine tub, or basket, generally doesn’t cause problems. However, at times it may cause damage to the laundry, make a lot of noise, vibrate, or stop completely.

If laundry is torn during the wash cycle, feel around the tub. If you find a rough spot, you may be able to smooth it with an emery board. Sand the spot lightly. If this doesn’t work — or if you have to cut to bare metal to remove the roughness — the tub should be replaced. In this case, it’s probably much wiser to replace the entire washer.

The agitator — the finned part that fits on the tub shaft — can also tear laundry if the fins are cracked or broken. You may be able to solve the problem temporarily by pinching off the splinters with pliers and lightly filing the plastic smooth, but this is just a stopgap measure; the agitator should be replaced. Replace a damaged agitator with a new one of the same type. To do this, unscrew the cap on top of the agitator. With the cap off, pull straight up on the agitator; it should lift off. If it doesn’t move, rap its side with a hammer. If it still won’t lift off, drive wedges under the bottom rim of the agitator to dislodge it. Then set the new agitator into place and replace the agitator cap.

Damage to the snubber, a padlike device sometimes located under the agitator cap, can cause the machine to vibrate excessively. The snubber may have a suspension spring in it. Lift off the agitator cap and examine the snubber. If the spring is broken, or if the pad is visibly worn, replace the entire snubber. Snubbers might also be found at the splash guard at the top of the tub, under the transmission, or as part of the water pump housing. Look around until you see it.

If the machine doesn’t have a snubber, listen for noise at the suspension unit between the tub and the machine cabinet. The suspension unit has fins or pads that may need replacement. In some cases, the entire unit may have to be replaced. Another noise point is the basket support nut. Tighten the nut or, if you can’t tighten it, replace it.

Sudden tub stops can be caused by a broken motor belt, but they are usually due to poor tub loading. Check to see if wet laundry is wadded around the bottom of the tub shaft, or under the basket or agitator assembly. Remove the basket or agitator in order to remove the laundry easily.

We will conclude our tour of the washing machine on the next page with tips for servicing the water pump, the belts and pulleys, and the motor.

Servicing Water-Related Problems, Belts, Pulleys, and the Motor

On this page we will explore some of the more mechanical parts of a washing machine like belts, pulleys and the motor. First, we have some tips for water-related problems.

Troubleshooting Water Leaks

Water leaks in a washer are often difficult to trace. There are many possibilities to look for. The problem could be a loose connection, a broken hose, a cracked component, or a defective seal. It could also be a hole in the tub. If a hole in the tub is the problem, it’s usually best to replace the washer.

Most leaks can be eliminated by tightening water connections and replacing deteriorated components. To stop a leak:

Step 1: Check the lid seal. If faulty, replace with a new gasket.

Step 2: Check the hoses at faucet connections. Tighten connections or replace hoses.

Step 3: Check the hoses at water valve connections. Tighten connections or replace hoses.

Step 4: Check the drain hoses. Tighten connections or replace hoses.

Step 5: Check the inlet nozzles. Tighten connections or replace nozzles.

Step 6: Check the splash guard. Tighten connections or replace.

Step 7: Check any plastic valve. Tighten connections or replace.

Step 8: Check the outlet hose to drain. Tighten connections or replace hose.

Step 9: Check the water pump, using the procedures that follow.

Servicing the Water Pump

Of all washing machine parts, the water pump probably takes the most punishment, because it is constantly in use. When the pump fails, you can hear or see the trouble: a loud rumbling inside the machine, or a failure of the water to drain out of the tub. Here’s what you can do to fix the problem:

Step 1: Check the drain hoses to make sure they are draining properly. Remove the water supply hoses from the back of the washer. With long-nosed pliers, extract the filter screens from the valve ports in the washer or from the hoses themselves. Wash the screens thoroughly. Then replace them and reattach the hoses. If the machine still rumbles or doesn’t drain, examine the pump.

Step 2: To access the pump, first bail and sponge out any water in the machine’s tub. Then tip the washer over on its front, using a heavy blanket or pad to protect the washer’s finish. Remove the back service panel. The pump is usually located along the bottom of the machine, but with the unit tipped on its front it’s easier to remove the pump through the back than through the bottom of the washer.

Step 3: Locate the pump. It has two large hoses attached to it with spring or strap clips. If the clips are the spring type, pinch the ends of the clips together with pliers to release them, and slide the clips down the hoses. If the clips are the strap type, unscrew the metal collar to loosen the clamp. Disconnect the hoses by pulling them off the connections. If the hoses are kinked or crimped at these connections, straighten them as best you can and reconnect them. Then try the machine again to see if this kinking was causing the problem. If the machine still doesn’t drain, you’ll have to remove the water pump.

Step 4: To remove the pump, loosen the bolt that holds the drive belt taut and move the washer motor on the bracket to loosen the belt. Move the motor out of the way and unbolt the pump; it’s usually held by two or three hex-head bolts located on the bottom of the pump housing. As you loosen the last mounting bolt, support the pump with your hand. Then lift the pump out of the washer.

Step 5: You should take the pump apart if you can, because the trouble could be lint, dirt, or pieces of cloth or paper clogging the pump impeller. Clean away all debris inside the pump and clear any debris out of the water tubes. Then reassemble the pump. Hook up the pump again and test it. If cleaning the pump doesn’t put it back into working order, or if the pump housing can’t be removed, replace the pump with a new one of the same kind.

Step 6: To install the new pump, set it into position and connect the mounting bolts to the pump housing. Move the motor back into position. Tighten the drive belt on the motor by prying it taut with a hammer handle or pry bar; it should give about 1/2 inch when you press on it at the center point between the two pulleys.

Step 7: Reconnect the hoses leading to the pump.

Replacing Drive Belts and Tightening Pulleys

The drive belt (or belts) of a washing machine may become worn or damaged, causing noisy operation or stopping the washer entirely. A damaged drive belt is easy to replace. Remove the back panel of the washer to gain access to the belt. To remove the belt:

Step 1: Loosen the bolt on the motor bracket and move the motor to put slack in the belt.

Step 2: Remove the old belt and stretch a new one into place on the pulleys.

Step 3: To put tension on the new belt, use a hammer handle or a short pry bar to push the motor into position while you tighten the bolt in the adjustable bracket. The belt should have about 1/2 inch deflection when you press on it at the center point, midway between the pulleys. If the belt is too loose, it will slip on the pulleys, causing the machine to malfunction. If the belt is too tight, it will wear very quickly and will probably become so hot that it will start to smoke or smell.

Loose pulleys can also cause problems. Most pulleys are fastened to shafts with setscrews around the hub of the pulley. These screws must be tight or else the pulley or belt will slip. The resulting malfunction may seem to be caused by a faulty motor, but it can be corrected by tightening the pulleys and adjusting the belt. For this reason, always check the belts and pulleys before working on the motor.

Servicing the Motor

In most cases, motor malfunctions should be handled by a professional; do not try to fix the motor yourself. If the motor is a universal motor, however, you can change worn carbon brushes when sparking occurs, as detailed in the how to repair appliances article. To save the expense of a service call, remove the motor from the washer and take it to a professional service person, then reinstall the repaired or new motor yourself. To access the motor, remove the back panel of the washer. The motor is mounted on an adjustable bracket.

There is one other motor problem you can repair yourself. Washer motors usually have an overload protector clipped to the motor. When this component fails, the motor won’t work. Before you take the motor in for service, test the protector with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect one electrical lead wire to the protector and clip one probe of the VOM to each protector terminal. The meter should read zero. If the needle jumps higher, the protector is faulty and should be replaced. Pry up the protector with a screwdriver and replace it with a new one made specifically for the motor or washer. Connect the new protector the same way the old one was connected.

Servicing a washing machine can be a frustrating home repair project. Because a washer has so many different cycles and functions it’s not always apparent what exactly is going wrong. With the troubleshooting tips in this article, you should be cranking out loads of clean laundry in no time.

The control panels on the latest dishwashers can look intimidating. They’re loaded with so many dials, push buttons, and other features that the machine looks too complex to repair. This is actually not the case. With the exception of the control panel, dishwashers haven’t changed much in basic design over the last two decades. You can repair most dishwasher malfunctions yourself, and we’ll discuss tips for do-it-yourself service and maintenance in this article.

Dishwasher parts can be replaced as a unit, which is often easier and less expensive than having a professional service person make repairs. If you aren’t sure a part is still usable, remove it from the dishwasher and take it to a professional for testing. You can then decide whether to buy a new part or have the old one repaired on the basis of the repair estimate.

Dishwashers usually run on 115-volt or 120-volt power. The water they use comes directly from the water heater, and wastewater is drained into the sink’s drainpipe. The dishwasher is not connected to the cold-water supply. For best dishwashing results, set the temperature control of the water heater to no less than 140 degrees Farenheit. Water cooler than this usually doesn’t get the dishes clean, unless your dishwasher is a newer model that preheats incoming water. The water shutoff for the dishwasher is typically located below the adjoining sink.

Caution: Because the dishwasher is connected to both the plumbing system and the electrical system, you must consider both systems when working on this appliance. Before doing any work on the dishwasher, make sure the unit is unplugged or the power to the unit is turned off, and remove the fuse or trip the circuit breaker that controls the circuit at the main entrance panel or at a separate panel. Shut off the water supply to the dishwasher at the shutoff in the basement or crawl space under the kitchen.

Basic Operating Checks

Here are some operating checks you can make if the dishwasher does not work:

Step 1: Check to make sure it’s receiving power. If the unit plugs into a wall outlet, check the cord, the plug, and the outlet to make sure they’re functioning properly. Also check the switch that controls the outlet to make sure it’s turned on. Most built-in dishwashers are wired directly into a circuit. Check the main entrance panel for a blown fuse or tripped circuit breaker, and restore the circuit. If your home is an older one, the dishwasher may be wired to a separate entrance panel; look for a blown fuse or breaker at this panel, and restore the circuit.

Step 2: If the circuit is receiving power, and the wall outlet is controlled by a switch, the switch may be faulty. Test the switch with a voltage tester. Take off the switch cover plate and place one probe of the tester on one terminal and the other probe on the other terminal. If the tester bulb lights, the switch is functioning. If it doesn’t light, the switch is faulty. Replace the switch with a new one of the same type.

Step 3: Make sure the door is tightly closed and latched. The dishwasher will not operate until the latch is properly engaged. To check the latch, close and latch the door, holding the latch tightly in place. Then, still pressing the latch closed, turn the control knob to the ON position. If the dishwasher works, the latch is faulty and should be cleaned, tightened, or replaced.

Step 4: Make sure the water is turned on and the water temperature is high enough. A breakdown in the water heater could stop flow of water to the dishwasher. Test the hot water in the kitchen sink or bathroom. If you can draw hot water, the water heater may not be at fault.

Step 5: Make sure the controls on the control panel are properly set. The newer push-button controls can be very sensitive; make sure the buttons are firmly pressed into position.

If you’ve gone through these five checks without finding the solution, it’s time to dig deeper into the dishwasher.

Disassembling the Dishwasher

Access to the working parts of most dishwashers is through the front door of the unit. Many repairs can be made to the machine by simply opening the door and reaching into the various component parts, such as the sprayers, strainers, float switch, racks, and door latch.
To get to the control panel on the door, remove a series of retaining screws around the panel. These screws may be under molding trim strips, which usually snap onto the metal housing. Pry off the strips with a stiff-bladed putty knife or a screwdriver, or remove a setscrew that holds the molding. The control knobs are friction-fit on shafts or are held by small setscrews in the base of the knobs. In some dishwashers, the entire front door panel must be removed to gain access to the control components. This panel is held to the door by a series of retaining screws, usually found around the edge on the inside back of the door.

On many models, once the control panel is removed the door panel can be removed by unscrewing a series of fasteners holding the door panel in place. Sometimes these retaining screws are covered by trim moldings, which must be pried or slipped off. For access to the motor, pump, hoses, inlet valves, and other parts, remove the lower access panel. This can usually be done without removing the entire door. The panel may be held by retaining screws, or it may lift up and off metal hangers.

If the dishwasher is portable, tip the machine over on its back or side before removing the control door or lower access panels. This may give you a more comfortable working position.

Once you can get inside the dishwasher, knowing the major parts and how they function will help you assess the problem. We’ll review the main parts and how to check them in the next section.
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Door and Switch Repairs

When your dishwasher isn’t working properly, you should check several main components, such as the door gasket, door latch, switches, and timer.

Replacing the Door Gasket

If water leaks through the dishwasher door, the gasket is probably faulty. Open the door and examine the gasket. It should be soft and resilient. If it’s worn, cracked, or hard, it should be replaced.

Once the gasket is in place, check it for fit against the door frame. It should fit tightly with no cracks or bulges between the gasket and the frame. If necessary, tighten or loosen the retaining screws, or refit the gasket in the clips or the door channel. Then run the machine through a washing sequence and check for leaks.

If you spot a leak, and the gasket seems to be properly in place, try adjusting the door latch. The trick is to position the gasket against the frame of the door without flattening the gasket or squeezing it too flat when the door is latched properly. Adjust the latch or the gasket until it fits snugly against the door frame.

Servicing the Door Latch

The latch on a dishwasher door is opened and closed repeatedly, and this hard use can lead to mechanical problems. The latch may be loose, or it may have slipped out of position, throwing the alignment off and preventing the door from closing properly. When this happens, the latch does not engage properly, and the dishwasher will not start.

In many cases, you may be able to solve the problem by adjusting the position of the latch. Move the latch slightly by loosening the screws that hold it. Slide the latch with your fingers or pliers; the screw slots are made especially for this purpose. Close and open the door to see whether the latch is properly aligned. Tighten the screws to hold it in the correct position.

After repositioning the latch, check to see if it’s working properly. Close and latch the door and turn the control knob to the ON position. If the dishwasher doesn’t start, the latch is faulty. Replace it with a new latch, connecting it the same way the old one was connected. You may have to move the new latch back and forth several times before it works properly.

Servicing the Door Switch

On many dishwashers, the latch engages a switch to activate the timer and other control components. If the latch is not completely engaged or if the switch is faulty, the machine will not operate. Here’s how to test and repair a door switch:

Step 1: Latch the door and hold the latch tightly in the closed position. This works best on a unit with a lever-type latch. Then turn the control to the ON position. If the unit works, the problem is probably a misaligned lock unit. Adjust the lock unit with a screwdriver. If this doesn’t solve the problem, the switch may be faulty.

Step 2: Test the switch with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. Remove the panel covering the door switch and remove one of the electrical lead wires of the switch from its terminals. Clip one probe of the VOM to each switch terminal and shut the dishwasher’s door. If the meter reads zero, the switch is working. If the meter reads higher than zero, the switch is faulty and should be replaced.

Step 3: Replace the switch with a new one of the same type. Connect the new switch the same way the old one was connected.

Servicing the Float Switch

Dishwashers are usually protected from overfilling by a float switch. This switch is located in the bottom of the unit. Here’s how to check and replace it:

Step 1: Open the door and remove the bottom dish rack. Check to see if the float valve is stuck. If it is, clean away food debris around the float. With a screwdriver handle, lightly tap the top of the float to free it.

Step 2: If tapping doesn’t work, remove the lower access panel and locate the bottom portion of the float and float switch. Test the float switch with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Unscrew one electrical lead wire to the switch terminal, and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. If the meter reads zero, the switch is not faulty. The trouble is probably in the timer. If the meter reads higher than zero, the switch is faulty.

Step 3: Replace the switch with a new one made to fit the dishwasher. The switch is held to a mounting bracket with screws; remove the screws to get the old switch out.

Step 4: Connect the new switch the same way the old one was connected.

Servicing Timer and Control Switches

Because the timer controls many operations, a faulty timer can cause many problems. The timer is a complex component, so you shouldn’t attempt a do-it-yourself repair. Test the timer with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. To gain access to the timer, remove the front control panel. The timer is directly behind the main timer control knob. Disconnect one of the timer’s terminal wires and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. If the meter reads zero, the timer is working. If the meter reads higher than zero, the timer is faulty and should be repaired by Don’s Timer Service.

If possible, use the same procedure to test the selector and cycle switches. The wiring hookup, however, may be too complicated to figure out on either of these switches. If you aren’t sure you can deal with these switches, call a professional service person. Replace a faulty timer — or a faulty control switch — with a new one made for the dishwasher.

The timer is connected to several wires that supply power to operate the various functions of the dishwasher. To replace the timer, have a helper hold the new timer next to the old one. Connect the wires of the new timer one by one, removing the old wire and connecting the new, to make sure you connect the wires correctly. The wires may be friction-fit on the terminals. If they are, use long-nosed pliers to remove the wires. Don’t pull up on the wires, or you may break the connection between the wires and the clips.

After connecting the wires, set the new timer in position, secure it the way the old one was secured, and replace the control panel and knobs.

If your dishwasher won’t fill with water properly or isn’t drying the dishes, you most likely have a valve or heating element problem. In the next section, we’ll discuss how you can assess these types of problems.

Valve, Dispenser, and Dish Rack Repairs

Checking on and routinely maintaining the various valves, detergent dispenser, and dish rack can keep the right amount of water and cleaner working effectively in your dishwasher.

Servicing the Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve controls the amount of water flowing into the dishwasher. It may be activated by the timer or by a solenoid. If the dishwasher doesn’t fill with water:

Step 1: Make sure that the water supply to the unit is turned on and that there’s no problem at the water heater. A shutdown of the water heater would cause a shutdown of the water to the dishwasher.

Step 2: Check the timer to make sure it’s working through its programmed sequences. If both the water supply and the timer are in working order, the problem is probably in the inlet valve.

Step 3: Check the inlet valve located under the tub of the dishwasher. Malfunctions of the inlet valve may also occur when a screen inside the valve becomes clogged with mineral deposits. To solve this problem, pry out the screen with a screwdriver and flush it thoroughly with running water. Then replace the screens.

Step 4: If the valve is controlled by a solenoid, the solenoid is usually connected to the side of the dishwasher. Tap the solenoid and the valve lightly with the handle of a screwdriver to break it free of any obstruction. Then start the dishwasher again.

Step 5: If the dishwasher still doesn’t fill, test the solenoid with a volt-ohm-milliammeter (VOM) set to the RX1 scale. Disconnect one electrical lead to the solenoid and clip one probe of the VOM to each solenoid terminal. If the meter reads from about 100 ohms to 1,000 ohms, the solenoid is functioning. If the reading is higher than 1,000, the solenoid is faulty and should be replaced.

Step 6: If necessary, replace the solenoid with a new one of the same size and type. Connect the new solenoid the same way the old one was connected.

Badly worn or misshapen inlet valves cannot be repaired. If the valve is damaged, replace it with a new one made for the dishwasher. The valve is usually held to a mounting bracket with screws. Take apart the connection linking the valve to the water supply. Then take out screws and remove the valve. Install the new valve by making the connections in reverse order.

Servicing Drain Valves

Some dishwashers have drain valves. These valves are used only in dishwashers with nonreversible motors. When the drain valve malfunctions, call a professional service person.

Servicing the Heating Element

The heating element is used to help dry the dishes. In most dishwashers, the heating element fits around the screen in the bottom of the tub housing; it looks like an electric oven element. The heating element doesn’t malfunction often, but it can burn out. If you suspect a faulty element:

Step 1: Test it with a VOM set to the RX1 scale. Remove the dishwasher’s bottom access panel and disconnect one of the power leads to the element. Clip one probe of the VOM to each element terminal. If the meter reads between 15 and 30 ohms, the element is working. If the reading is higher than 30 ohms, the element is faulty and should be replaced.

Step 2: As needed, replace the heating element with a new one made for the dishwasher. Disconnect the electrical leads to the element’s terminal screws and remove the nuts or other fasteners that hold the element to the terminals. From inside the tub, lift the element out. It may be held by clips and ceramic blocks in the tub, but you can easily thread it past these spacers. Set the new heating element in position, reconnect the power leads, and replace the fasteners that hold the element in place.

Servicing the Detergent Dispenser

Accumulated detergent from prior washings can cause problems with the soap dispenser. Buildup can get into the soap dispenser and interfere with the spring that triggers the flip-out tray, or it can slow down the pivot action of the tray. If the dispenser is not opening, first make sure you aren’t loading the machine so dishes or pots and pans are touching the dispenser, and that dish racks aren’t blocking the dispenser. Also check to make sure the dispenser tray isn’t cracked. If leftover detergent in the tray is almost liquid, rather than just damp, the tray may be damaged.

If you can’t solve the problem easily, replace the entire dispenser unit. This is usually easier than trying to disassemble it and replace separate parts. Use a new dispenser made for the dishwasher. The screws holding the dispenser in place may be on the front of the unit, or you may have to remove the front door panel to get to the screws and make the replacement. Remove the old dispenser and secure the new one, connecting it in the same way the old unit was attached.

Troubleshooting Dish Racks

Problems with the dish racks usually occur because the racks have been jammed back into the tub housing after they’re fully loaded. Careless handling can exert enough force to crack or break the roller wheels or throw the racks off the tracks. The solution is easy: Stop jamming the racks.

The repair is easy, too. Remove the racks by pulling out the tiny metal pins that hold them in the tracks. Or simply lift up on the racks and pull them out of the tracks. Then reinstall the racks on the tracks so that they roll smoothly. If the rollers are cracked or broken, replace them with new ones of the same type. The rollers may be friction-fit to their hubs. Pull them off for replacement. Or, if they are held by tiny spring clips, pull the clips out with pliers, or pry them out with the tip of a screwdriver. If you can’t pull the rollers off for replacement, remove and replace the entire rack.

A noisy wash cycle or water that won’t drain are problems that, for the most part, can be handled yourself. We’ll discuss how you can pinpoint these water-related problems in the next section.

Motor and Water-Related Repairs

Keeping the dishwasher’s sprayer arms, strainers, and water pump clean will help deter problems before they begin. Here’s how to check on these important features.

Cleaning Sprayer Arms

The sprayer arms seldom cause any trouble, but sometimes the spray holes in the arms become encrusted with detergent or minerals. When this happens, the holes must be cleaned out so that the arms will work efficiently. Remove the lower arm by twisting off the cap that holds it to the motor shaft. Wash it thoroughly with water and mild household detergent. Sharpen a lead pencil and break off the lead point. Use the tapered end of the pencil to ream out the holes. A wood manicure stick can also be used.

Do not use toothpicks, matches, or metal objects for this job. Lightweight wooden sticks could break off in the ports, causing blockage; metal could scrape and enlarge the ports. After cleaning, place the sprayer arm back on the motor shaft and twist the cap back on to hold it in place. Follow the same procedure to clean the upper sprayer arm.

Removing and Cleaning the Strainer

The strainer is located directly under the lower sprayer arm. When the strainer becomes clogged with food and detergent debris, the dishwasher may flood or overfill. On some dishwashers, the strainer is a plastic or metal component consisting of two semicircular halves. To remove this type of strainer, pry it up. On other dishwashers, the strainer is a one-piece component. To remove this type, remove the cap that holds the sprayer arm on its shaft. Then remove the sprayer arm and the strainer.

Wash the strainer in the kitchen sink with water and a mild household detergent. Use a fairly stiff brush to get all the debris out of the holes and slots in the strainer. Rinse the strainer well and replace it. If part of the strainer lifts out for regular cleaning, check it and clean it — if necessary — after each load of dishes is washed.

Troubleshooting Leaks

If the dishwasher leaks, and you know the problem is not related to tub overfilling, the pump, or inlet valve problems, the plumbing connections may be faulty. Most dishwashers are connected to the water supply with metal pipe fittings, and the leak could be at these fittings. If the fittings are threaded, tighten them with an adjustable wrench. If this doesn’t work, chances are the threads are stripped or the fitting is cracked or otherwise damaged. In this case, replace the fitting.

Most dishwashers discharge used water through a pipe or a hose connected to the drain or garbage disposer under the kitchen sink. If the drain line is made of flexible hosing, it may have cracked from prolonged exposure to hot water. Examine the hose; if it’s damaged, replace it. If the hose is leaking at its connections with the disposer or dishwasher, tighten the fittings or clamps at the connections, or replace the clamps. Also check for water leaks around inlet valves, drain valves, and anywhere you see flexible hoses and hose connections. Leaks at clamps can be stopped by tightening or replacing the clamps. Leaks in hoses can be eliminated by replacing the hoses.

Servicing the Water Pump

In most dishwashers, the water pump is located under the lower sprayer arm. This component pumps the water through the dishwasher. The pump has two impellers, top and bottom. These, as well as other components, can become clogged with food or detergent. Here’s how to disassemble the pump:

Step 1: Remove the cap that holds the sprayer arm on.

Step 2: Remove the sprayer arm, the screen, the pump housing, a bolt, the upper impeller, the food disposer blade, a spacer plate, the impeller hood, a flat plate, an O-ring, and the lower impeller. Lay the parts out in order as you disassemble them so that you’ll be able to reassemble them properly.

Step 3: Clean the parts thoroughly with a mild detergent solution. If any parts are worn, replace them with new ones made for the dishwasher.

Step 4: Replace any seals, such as the O-ring or other washers, with new ones.

Step 5: Reassemble the pump, keeping the parts in order.

To reach the water pump, remove the sprayer arm and screen and then the pump housing. Remove the bolt, and the pump components can be disassembled.

On some dishwashers, the lower impeller serves as a drain pump. This type of system usually has a reversible motor; machines with nonreversible motors have drain valves, as detailed previously. If your machine possesses this impeller pump system, and the water will not drain from the dishwasher, clean the lower pump impeller. This may solve the problem. Otherwise, call a professional service person.

Repairing the Motor

If the dishwasher motor malfunctions, don’t try to fix it yourself. Call a professional service person to make repairs or replace the motor. Before you call for service, however, you should check to make sure that the timer is working and that the dishwasher is receiving power.

Don’t let water leaks, a noisy cycle, soap spots, or other problems keep you from using your dishwasher. Most problems can be handled yourself if you follow the guidelines mentioned in this article.

If you do appliance repairs, you can help  the reduction in environmental waste and even profit from your good deeds. Rather than discarding your customers’ failed range timer, collect it to earn extra revenue. Once you have collected 10 or more range clocks, send them to us by standard mail and we will send you a check for $5 per clock. This offer only includes mechanical stove clocks and oven clocks. Laundry timers and dishwasher timers are not included in our timer purchase offer.

Before removing or inspecting your timer, it is extremely important that you disconnect the power to our appliance. If the appliance has a LED display, take note of any failure codes that may be present in this display before you disconnect the power.

Be aware, that some appliances have capacitors. Capacitors are similar to batteries in that they can store an electrical charge even after the power has been disconnected. To prevent shock, avoid touching the circuitry or other components attached to the timer board.

Gaining Access to the Timer

You may need to open up your appliance to gain access to the timer. Some timers can be accessed from the back of the appliance others require removal from the front. Check your Owner’s Manual as this may include a diagram that shows how the timer can be accessed.

As you remove the screws, it is a good idea to tape them near the location from which they were removed. This will help ensure that all of the screws are replaced correctly when installing the repaired timer. This is especially important when all of the screws are not the same size.

Label the Wiring

Before removing your timer, you should always label the wires that connect to the timer to ensure that it is reconnected correctly. We recommend using masking tape and a permanent marker to associate the terminals that are to be connected. If there is a wiring harness connected to the timer, be sure to mark the orientation of the harness to make sure it not reversed when plugging it back in.

Unplug the Terminals and Harnesses
Most of the wires connected to your timer will have pressure terminals that can be slid off. You may need to gently wiggle the terminal back and forth disconnect the terminal. The wiring harness may have a clip that needs to be held to allow removal. Some terminals require a screw to be removed in order to disconnect the wire.

Remove the Timer

Identify the screws and brackets that hold the timer in place and remove these. Once again as you remove these screws you may want to tape them near to the holes where they belong.

Be careful when handling the timer board to avoid damaging any of the attached components.

Remove the Peripherals

When sending us a common range timer or a mechanical timer, it is usually sufficient to just send the timer, itself.

If the problem timer is an electronic timer from a washer, dryer or dishwasher, or a specialty range, please include any peripherals connected to the timer. For example, we will need to have the touch-pad and connecting cable to facilitate our diagnosis and testing. In some cases, we may also require the transformer and relay board to facilitate our tests. If there is a wiring diagram for the timer in the owner’s manual or affixed to the appliance, please send this as well.

Don’s Timer Service rebuilds appliance timers and stove clocks for all popular brands of ranges (ovens, stoves), washers, dryers and dishwashers. We specialize in saving money for consumers and businesses all across the United States and we have a large inventory of in-stock rebuilt timers if you need a lower cost replacement for your bad timers.